My passion to stay with the
sea-drummer's beat and play melodies against the grinding bass of deep ocean swells
has taken me from my birthplace in West Cornwall to discover a spectrum of surfing
and cultural challenges. I embrace these with a geographical imagination educated
by the classroom of Cambridge University and polished by global field trips, often
to politically difficult and culturally complex brilliant corners of the world.
For me, while exploration is the essence of surfing, I take surfing beyond
the wave, to a wider sense of place - to people in concert with landscape, and
often to varieties of culture shock. I want to travel to extreme places in the
sense of unusual, or out of the way, corners of coastline to engage with the essence
of the place and its inhabitants. The journey is as important as the goal. But
I do not want to conquer the dark spots on the map. I prefer to think that the
sea and travel shape me, rather than imagining that I stamp my identity on anything.
By approaching new situations with an openness and willingness to learn, I have
come to appreciate that there is a place between acceptance and confidence that
demands poise. We all know the feeling of poise. The trick is how you translate
that moment into life as a whole.